Chain Maile Chausses
Received the last piece of maile required for my replica 12th century medieval kit this week and was curious but also anxious of the fit. Therein lies the issue with modern armor recreations bought off the internet as items are usually produced in Asia and sizing can be hit or miss. They are mass produced and usually tagged with the "one size all" label which can be problematic. There is a reason why hardcore re-inactors or HEMA participants spend the coin for custom pieces.
My suspicions were confirmed with the first attempt to suspend the chausses. The upper legs were snug but there was more than enough maile around the back of the knee and lower legs. Length was also an issue. You know what that means.......DIY modifications!
Before I proceeded with the modifications I removed most of the foot maile to make the chausses a rough serviceable length as I had no intent on covering all the foot or creating an integral shoe.I also removed the maile belt hoops. Not only did they just add extra weight but the design did not facilitate the fit I was looking for. Not quite sure they are historically accurate anyway...not that it really matters.
Next step was weaving the upper edge of maile and the inside of the thighs with a leather strap in anticipation of adding the ties for durability and protection of the string. I opted for the belt method of suspension rather than attaching direct to braies or the use of a lendener - a wide girdle like under garment. I suspect the lendener would perform the best with distributing the weight of the maile much like a modern day tool belt that sits firmly on the hips.
Took some trial and error but I got the points in place to best support the weight using a rather sturdy black leather belt. It's OK but I think the lendener would feel better with less chance of binding.In hindsight some of the excess maile on the mid leg might be a good thing for adding padded gambeson style leg protection but I may have to remove some inner thigh links to have enough room on the quads.
Lower leg definitely needed a taper. The stove pipe design meant there was too much unnecessary material and weight. First step was to remove what was left of the foot mail except for enough to cover the top of the foot. It could remain loose, or depending on the footware used, be secured by the use of straps or points.
The next step was tapering the lower leg. I removed a section of maile from ankle to mid calf, lined the edge with with leather weaving then added ties that could be pulled tight. The length of the tie also meant I could loop it around the lower leg to offer more weight support. Finally another strap was temporarily added just below the knee that helped facilitate less weight on the hips and belt suspension. I will add a permanent one eventually though it appears small belts were/are the preferred option but a leather strap should be period authentic.
My suspicions were confirmed with the first attempt to suspend the chausses. The upper legs were snug but there was more than enough maile around the back of the knee and lower legs. Length was also an issue. You know what that means.......DIY modifications!
Before I proceeded with the modifications I removed most of the foot maile to make the chausses a rough serviceable length as I had no intent on covering all the foot or creating an integral shoe.I also removed the maile belt hoops. Not only did they just add extra weight but the design did not facilitate the fit I was looking for. Not quite sure they are historically accurate anyway...not that it really matters.
Next step was weaving the upper edge of maile and the inside of the thighs with a leather strap in anticipation of adding the ties for durability and protection of the string. I opted for the belt method of suspension rather than attaching direct to braies or the use of a lendener - a wide girdle like under garment. I suspect the lendener would perform the best with distributing the weight of the maile much like a modern day tool belt that sits firmly on the hips.
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| Lendener |
Took some trial and error but I got the points in place to best support the weight using a rather sturdy black leather belt. It's OK but I think the lendener would feel better with less chance of binding.In hindsight some of the excess maile on the mid leg might be a good thing for adding padded gambeson style leg protection but I may have to remove some inner thigh links to have enough room on the quads.
Lower leg definitely needed a taper. The stove pipe design meant there was too much unnecessary material and weight. First step was to remove what was left of the foot mail except for enough to cover the top of the foot. It could remain loose, or depending on the footware used, be secured by the use of straps or points.
The next step was tapering the lower leg. I removed a section of maile from ankle to mid calf, lined the edge with with leather weaving then added ties that could be pulled tight. The length of the tie also meant I could loop it around the lower leg to offer more weight support. Finally another strap was temporarily added just below the knee that helped facilitate less weight on the hips and belt suspension. I will add a permanent one eventually though it appears small belts were/are the preferred option but a leather strap should be period authentic.
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| Weight support belts |
Seems to have worked fairly well. Mobility was good and suspension was comfortable. Looks rough but effective and remember it will all be covered by a gambeson, hauberk , tunic or surcoat
inchesa
Update - I purchased a pair of padded gambeson chausses to wear under the chain mail leggings. Bought via EBay the seller nailed the leg length and thigh measurements but the calves were too tight and the belt loops were short waisted. Using an upholstery needle and thread I hand tailored the chausses to fit. By opening the lower leg seam and adding an ankle strap and extending the belt loop by an additional four inches I was able to wear the garment appropriately.
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